OUTPUTS:
Presently the approximate volumetric gas
discharge by an inverted
measuring flask is given below:
INPUT--H2+O2 cc/sec---H2 only cc/sec---H2
Lit/hr
0.5
A-----7.00--------------4.66-------------16.776
1.0
A-----8.66--------------5.78-------------20.808
1.5
A-----11.66-------------7.78-------------28.008
2.0
A-----14.00-------------9.33-------------33.588
3.0
A-----16.36------------10.91-------------39.276
4.0
A-----18.00------------12.00-------------43.200
*H2+O2 was calculated on an average basis for
collection time of 30 secs. I'm not very sure
of H2 and O2 volumes as I've calculated H2 as
2/3rd the volume of the total and O2 as 1/3rd the
volume. In case I'm wrong please do let me
know how to calculate these.
*rrh, You always knew that this "quasi piezoelectric"
ultrasonic cavitational energy was selectively leaching the iron,
from among all the alloying elements in Stainless Steel,
such as chromium, molybdenum, niobium, and nickel,
which are always found in the cathode and anode surfaces of the
water capacitor; during amperage mode, the water fuel cell
surfaces are etched and replated in favor of the lessor
reactive metals population enhancement. This re-population
of surface elements effectively increases gas production
through natural catalytic alchemical activity and there
is the probability that higher voltages can be used as
the more reactive iron interference doesn't waste voltage
as current.
Didn't you know that? etc etc
Ravi Says "Alright guys, make a note of
this and save it some
place safe. Vital Information
The conditioning process below was given to me by
Dave Lawton and its what I followed religiously
for months to reach the outputs. Consider this as
the holy grail like I did and still do...
1. Do not use any resistance on the negative side
when conditioning the pipes.
2. Start at 0.5 Amps on freq gen and switch off
after 25 mins for 30 mins
3. Goto 1.0 Amps for 20 min and stop for 30
min
4. Goto 1.5 Amps for 15 min and stop for 20
min
5. Goto 2.0 Amps for 10 min and stop for 20
min
6. Goto 2.5 Amps for 5 min and stop for 15
min
7. Goto 3.0 Amps for 120 to 150 secs. need to
check if WFC getting hot...if it does you need to
reduce the time.
AFTER THE 7 STEPS ABOVE LET THE WFC STAND FOR
ATLEAST AN HOUR BEFORE YOU START ALL OVER AGAIN.
I used tap water for conditioning and no vinegar
or any additives.... I donot know if adding
something might work or not.
You would hardly see any gas generation at the
beginning but it makes a lot of brown
muck.....change the water after every cycle
initially. DONOT touch the tubes with bare hands
if the tube ends need to be cleaned of muck use a
brush but donot touch!! As per my experience the
brown muck if left in water for the next cycle
heats up the water and you need to avoid
this.
Then you see the reduction in generation of the
brown stuff over a period of time and at a point
the pipes dont make any brown stuff atall. You
would have had very good generation of gas by
now. You get a whitish powdery coat on the
surfaces. Never touch the pipes with bare hands
once this comes on.
DO THE CONDITIONING IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA OR
PREFERRABLY CLOSE THE TOP AND VENT THE GAS OUT IN
THE OPEN.
AS THE WFC IS LEFT ON FOR QUITE SOMETIME EVEN
SMALL AMOUNT OF GENERATION CAN GET ACCUMULATED IN
A CONSTRICTED SPACE AND COULD BE A HAZARD.
The above process to be done after annealing the
pipes....see to it that no oxide formation is
left on the pipes...use a detergent to wash off
the pipes and rinse them thoroughly with fresh
water.....assemble the setup including the leads
and base.....finally flush the pipes with lots of
fresh water......donot touch the pipes with bare
hands after this.......
Good Luck and happy conditioning......RAVI
I'll be away for a day or two....will get to more
explaining after that.
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